Chikankari is one of India's most elegant and refined embroidery traditions. Originating from Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh, this white-on-white (or pastel) shadow work embroidery transforms simple fabric into breathtaking art. Unlike the bold opulence of zardozi or the vibrant colors of Kutch embroidery, chikankari whispers luxury through subtlety — delicate floral motifs, intricate vine patterns, and whisper-thin stitches that seem to float on the fabric. At LuxeMia's suits collection, we carry chikankari pieces that showcase this timeless craft.
Chikankari is believed to have been introduced to India by Noor Jahan, the wife of Mughal Emperor Jahangir, in the 17th century. The word "chikan" comes from the Persian word "chakin" or "chikeen," meaning cloth wrought with needlework. Under Mughal patronage, Lucknow became the center of this art form, and it has remained so for over 400 years. The craft was traditionally passed down through generations of women, with each family specializing in specific stitch types. Today, Lucknow's chikankari artisans number over 2 million, making it one of the largest hand-embroidery sectors in India.
Authentic chikankari uses a combination of these stitches, each serving a different purpose in the overall design:
The simplest chikankari stitch, used to create outlines and simple linear patterns. Tepchi is often the first stitch a chikankari artisan learns and forms the foundation for more complex designs.
The signature chikankari technique. Stitches are worked on the reverse side of the fabric, creating a shadowy, hazy effect on the front. This gives chikankari its characteristic ethereal, dreamy quality. Bakhiya comes in two forms: Ulti Bakhiya (worked from the back for a shadow effect on the front) and Sidhi Bakhiya (worked from the front for a more defined look).
Knot stitches used to create the center of flowers and small, grain-like motifs. Phanda creates a small, circular knot, while murri creates a rice-shaped knot. These are the most difficult stitches to master and are the hallmark of premium chikankari.
Threads are drawn from the fabric and the remaining threads are woven to create a net-like pattern. Jali work creates the beautiful "windows" in chikankari fabric that resemble delicate lattice screens — inspired by Mughal architecture.
An elongated, petal-shaped stitch used to fill in leaves and flower petals. Keel kangan gives dimension and structure to the larger motifs in a chikankari design.
A fine detached eyelet stitch used to create small, circular openings filled with a buttonhole stitch. Hool adds texture and depth to the embroidery, often used for the centers of flowers.
Traditionally, chikankari was worked on fine muslin — a fabric so sheer it was called "woven wind." Today, you'll find chikankari on a variety of fabrics:
Chikankari's versatility makes it perfect for almost any event: