Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla: The 40-Year Duo Who Elevated Chikankari to Couture

Quick Answer: Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla are an Indian fashion designer duo who met on 15 August 1986 in Mumbai and founded their eponymous label, Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla, the same year. According to Sandeep Khosla's Wikipedia biography and the brand history on Fibre2Fashion, they are pioneers of Indian luxury fashion, credited with elevating traditional Indian embroidery (particularly chikankari and zardozi) to couture standards. They designed multiple outfits for the Abhishek Bachchan-Aishwarya Rai wedding (2007), dressed Sonam Kapoor for her wedding events (2018), and are favorites of the Kapoor sisters (Karisma and Kareena). Their flagship store is at Kemps Corner, Mumbai, with additional stores at DLF Emporio (Delhi) and Jio World Plaza (Mumbai).

Abu Jani was born and raised in Mumbai. Before meeting Sandeep Khosla, he worked as a freelance designer — what he has described in interviews as a "ghost designer for bored housewives," creating custom outfits for wealthy Mumbai clients without his name on the label. His early training was informal, learned through apprenticing with tailors and embroiderers in Mumbai's textile markets.

Sandeep Khosla was born into a family with textile business connections. He trained in fashion design formally and had worked with established Indian designer Xerxes Bhathena before meeting Jani. According to The Telegraph India's profile of the duo, Khosla brought technical pattern-making skills while Jani brought creative vision and client relationships.

The two met by chance on 15 August 1986 in Mumbai. As their official brand history recounts, they recognized within hours that their skills were complementary and decided to start a label together. They opened their first boutique, Mata Hari, in Mumbai that same year. The Mata Hari boutique became a destination for Mumbai's wealthy socialites, who were drawn to the duo's intricate chikankari and zardozi work on Western silhouettes.