Indian Embroidery Glossary: 40+ Techniques, Stitches, and Traditions

Quick Answer: This glossary defines 40+ Indian embroidery terms covering the major hand-embroidery traditions of India: zardozi, chikankari, aari, dabka, gota patti, kantha, phulkari, bandhani, kasuti, kashidakari, and more. Each term includes origin region, traditional fabric, stitch technique, price range, and care instructions. Indian embroidery is a $4+ billion annual industry employing over 7 million artisans (per the Ministry of Textiles, 2024), with several traditions holding Geographical Indication (GI) tags. This glossary helps buyers identify embroidery types, verify authenticity, and understand pricing. Companion to our main Indian Fashion Glossary and our detailed motifs and embroidery guide.

Persian-origin gold embroidery using metal thread, sequins, beads, and sometimes precious and semi-precious stones couched onto fabric. Zardozi is the most elaborate Indian embroidery technique, taking 60-90 days per bridal lehenga with 3-5 embroiderers. Origin: Mughal courts of Delhi and Agra (16th century); current centers: Lucknow, Delhi, Banaras. A hand-zardozi bridal lehenga costs $600-$2,500+; machine-zardozi costs $80-$400. See our zari work guide for details.

A traditional hand-embroidery technique from Lucknow using 32-40 distinct stitch types on cotton, muslin, georgette, chiffon, or silk. Originated in the Mughal era under Empress Nur Jahan. GI-tagged in 2008. The signature stitch is the bakhiya (shadow stitch). Authentic hand-chikankari costs $40 (cotton kurti) to $2,500+ (couture muslin). See our chikankari guide for details.

A chain-stitch embroidery technique using a hooked awl (the aari) to pull thread through the fabric from below. Aari is faster than zardozi (about 3x) and is used for floral and geometric patterns. Origin: Kashmir (called "kashida") and Gujarat (called "mochi bharat"). A hand-aari bridal saree costs $300-$1,200; machine-aari costs $50-$250.